tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1988242072570152262024-02-07T10:26:26.023+01:00Modeling the ATSF 4th District LA DivisionAlain Kaphttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06075703526554791495noreply@blogger.comBlogger55125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-198824207257015226.post-73823127086494252052021-02-04T13:01:00.000+01:002021-02-04T13:01:16.506+01:00Garbage trucks<p> Almost five years ago, I started this project and I completely forgot to post the update about painting and lettering these trucks.</p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjuHFV43dsqb3DMUCE1T_eQOxke6K9DzHh-imV1eUqSsnykUwfXNQ_dtxPz5GPM-qBMN5mrA7zaGYYYcxQq-2YHVOYfw_H3I4KX5Q73f5cF7QIeTaVm8xo3xc9LfXhGhiJ04Fv_osKtb8WW/s4128/20180429_094619.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3096" data-original-width="4128" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjuHFV43dsqb3DMUCE1T_eQOxke6K9DzHh-imV1eUqSsnykUwfXNQ_dtxPz5GPM-qBMN5mrA7zaGYYYcxQq-2YHVOYfw_H3I4KX5Q73f5cF7QIeTaVm8xo3xc9LfXhGhiJ04Fv_osKtb8WW/w400-h300/20180429_094619.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><p></p><p>For the bucket, I used a piece of Evergreen square tubing, cut out one side to get a "U".</p><p><br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgm-MPVS1oegemPJn0-yN9GhlIwh1poGF280Hs5xpo53RMjAa1Uc5ZFG5WgA80B63MoCjipidMZPzxfYzp1njO8D8mLmWs8lBrc2Awqc6nXNmS-mIU0J5t2AquXJlHLEDCzvMXiYD_m-_LB/s4128/20180429_100118.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3096" data-original-width="4128" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgm-MPVS1oegemPJn0-yN9GhlIwh1poGF280Hs5xpo53RMjAa1Uc5ZFG5WgA80B63MoCjipidMZPzxfYzp1njO8D8mLmWs8lBrc2Awqc6nXNmS-mIU0J5t2AquXJlHLEDCzvMXiYD_m-_LB/w400-h300/20180429_100118.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><p></p><p>Then, from pieces of .020" plain styrene I closed the sides to form the bucket.</p><p><br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6dhsz4zPdw7HmVFEPewZnPmu_nxXGqbkL7hyphenhyphentjq24DYzZlufuJm-IX6-iEXl7erzOH_dVgMf6OPza5nr9qqt-Cd6NN4T2oovYYM7nr6PHOcLGmq86ViWIJXo2JNc70MgrcnAtFQK87sPo/s4128/20180429_101804.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3096" data-original-width="4128" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6dhsz4zPdw7HmVFEPewZnPmu_nxXGqbkL7hyphenhyphentjq24DYzZlufuJm-IX6-iEXl7erzOH_dVgMf6OPza5nr9qqt-Cd6NN4T2oovYYM7nr6PHOcLGmq86ViWIJXo2JNc70MgrcnAtFQK87sPo/w400-h300/20180429_101804.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><p></p><p>The bucket is hung on brackets which are attached to a chain. This chain pulls the bucket up from the rear. About halfways up, the lid to the garbage compartment on top opens and the bucket is emptied through the opening on top.</p><p><br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjw0d2tx07uSPgVSaOfAVNaFW1n4K57ebyluLsDUMynK2ib94GEpGZo-Vxz1kdsjuTa1dDkvIrYCgoUpx2Heemr_1zBydw0Kffe6EydD_JuikVEbTik4t92fuwUNFNH6Dwtcsrt1SQVDyXg/s4128/20180429_102940.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3096" data-original-width="4128" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjw0d2tx07uSPgVSaOfAVNaFW1n4K57ebyluLsDUMynK2ib94GEpGZo-Vxz1kdsjuTa1dDkvIrYCgoUpx2Heemr_1zBydw0Kffe6EydD_JuikVEbTik4t92fuwUNFNH6Dwtcsrt1SQVDyXg/w400-h300/20180429_102940.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><p></p><p>I fashioned the brackets from bits of .040" styrene to give them a boomerang shape.</p><p> <br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWSOVWe81EwItNuL2e4Ht46UrwNeKcseuo5egyQnGFLEwJKJwKgCnJYdSJBbfGI4zmUy1iQv-T-LNBKadG3wuAa6VYvdEKwwc3DCBC_YfTzbXZH1bDNURjdkgJi6FXi_gR1TUnm8XFqfuV/s4128/20180429_093235.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3096" data-original-width="4128" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWSOVWe81EwItNuL2e4Ht46UrwNeKcseuo5egyQnGFLEwJKJwKgCnJYdSJBbfGI4zmUy1iQv-T-LNBKadG3wuAa6VYvdEKwwc3DCBC_YfTzbXZH1bDNURjdkgJi6FXi_gR1TUnm8XFqfuV/w400-h300/20180429_093235.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><p></p><p>These Preiser/Con-Cor Ford's are pretty simplistic, so I added a small interior with bench inside the cab.</p><p><br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVG1NBBE8ArsAIn_awccUP8xJtqcOtHQGVF-6H3l915fxa29rycAnYXe8DPTRUpHzcWvfmED57h6b9gTIucBNzAT1IS5sd3lv33-0hj6qojBJ4KOPs5bEzUgx3WeW9qPGS-D4rC1Zb9YCL/s4128/20180412_063239.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3096" data-original-width="4128" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVG1NBBE8ArsAIn_awccUP8xJtqcOtHQGVF-6H3l915fxa29rycAnYXe8DPTRUpHzcWvfmED57h6b9gTIucBNzAT1IS5sd3lv33-0hj6qojBJ4KOPs5bEzUgx3WeW9qPGS-D4rC1Zb9YCL/w400-h300/20180412_063239.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><p></p><p>Because the lettering on these old garbage trucks was rather simplistic, I fiddled around with different fonts on my computer and scaled the lettering until it fit the side of the truck.</p><p><br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgknud6eHqIt9Jy8qfT5DUVKOTfQUv18gUeKAyuEEwt_OJiPGoq0kVi3aZT2W9CL2_teWvtlDtmQ6W6KgbyaF7Ozry85ajpZ6sWlkdN01pYyM-HA0q0RpOD0_7mHaTMx2il6kbTPglJHb5d/s4128/20180503_060025.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3096" data-original-width="4128" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgknud6eHqIt9Jy8qfT5DUVKOTfQUv18gUeKAyuEEwt_OJiPGoq0kVi3aZT2W9CL2_teWvtlDtmQ6W6KgbyaF7Ozry85ajpZ6sWlkdN01pYyM-HA0q0RpOD0_7mHaTMx2il6kbTPglJHb5d/s320/20180503_060025.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><p></p><p>After assembling the the truck, it was ready for the paint shop. These early garbage trucks were painted white and also the garbage men were dressed in white. (at least what my photos on hand showed, unless they were only staged)<br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlCo4qN5oYUogphud5fkaauxyWd_fP3fht_cKZnWf1XUPrF6Mg3btOLRE9ARv7hPw9TnbQtR_iObuZP-KZo5DHLxWI5q_7ATgmrHK3ogrtIBHmwEuHewCDqdXE1pnngzfO5h_rzrP0uUul/s4128/20180503_060035.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3096" data-original-width="4128" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlCo4qN5oYUogphud5fkaauxyWd_fP3fht_cKZnWf1XUPrF6Mg3btOLRE9ARv7hPw9TnbQtR_iObuZP-KZo5DHLxWI5q_7ATgmrHK3ogrtIBHmwEuHewCDqdXE1pnngzfO5h_rzrP0uUul/s320/20180503_060035.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><p></p><p></p><p>There is no functionality to this truck. All parts were scratchbuild from the few photographs I could find. The garbage bins were emptied into the bucket. When it was full, the contents was lifted up the rear and emptied through the hatch on top of the container.<br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiu6Jx7xlSMFfSKXxf63h2s3G9E_ldkkt8sJhyNIMDqc5fy1NdmvCu1GBUhyphenhyphen4Tb8IEcEY-gocQqnbJ9b3fyaaqxGlLhbx089X3A70u4EwSszZ9tfpHK6hmCggonVUXXNac4JnGtTcagVMJn/s4128/20180510_135957.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3096" data-original-width="4128" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiu6Jx7xlSMFfSKXxf63h2s3G9E_ldkkt8sJhyNIMDqc5fy1NdmvCu1GBUhyphenhyphen4Tb8IEcEY-gocQqnbJ9b3fyaaqxGlLhbx089X3A70u4EwSszZ9tfpHK6hmCggonVUXXNac4JnGtTcagVMJn/w400-h300/20180510_135957.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><p></p><p>I printed the decals on clear decal sheet and applied the lettering to the sides of the trucks. I sealed the decal with an overspray of matte varnish (Dullcote)</p><p><br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvvw1EKUoGS5bAjduvDS9sfylzXp-qFPkgb9gCXZ3pT4x_6gb9lmNG8JuHpMyqVxYAiQL2zPzl6mm4ti3_iVC0yfpCfHEJJ1aLNz_8NLl-XYFfSECLBtVgm4-jCK_SyWt5WvaaHdoS2VbS/s4096/20181216_140836.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3072" data-original-width="4096" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvvw1EKUoGS5bAjduvDS9sfylzXp-qFPkgb9gCXZ3pT4x_6gb9lmNG8JuHpMyqVxYAiQL2zPzl6mm4ti3_iVC0yfpCfHEJJ1aLNz_8NLl-XYFfSECLBtVgm4-jCK_SyWt5WvaaHdoS2VbS/w640-h480/20181216_140836.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /> Now my small fleet of garbage trucks keeps my cities clean.<p></p><p><br /></p>Alain Kaphttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06075703526554791495noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-198824207257015226.post-6578556717409286682018-07-09T13:13:00.000+02:002018-07-09T13:13:34.254+02:00San Clemente (New lettering)In an earlier post I described how I copied the lettering for the San Clemente depot to a piece of paper and used the carbon copying method to transfer it to the walls.<br />
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Then I used a black marker pen to highlight the lettering<br />
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But my handwriting skills are not the best, so I decided to browse my different MS Office fonts until I found one that comes close.<br />
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This font is called "Papyrus" and contains some elements of the original writing. <br />
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Although not one hundred percent correct, it looks not too bad on the model.<br />
<br />Alain Kaphttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06075703526554791495noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-198824207257015226.post-19432068416195822782017-01-24T16:04:00.000+01:002017-01-24T17:50:30.645+01:00San Clemente (Setting the scene)<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSiYmnH1GbtCFr4WhTwbj48z_edcWemY7Wd4qXbFWizVqrAg9d9RNV6U3sJW0cVLGzSjXSTqG1xKaEhdQ14abB720O5r6Yq4LGpS221iR1ig0xeGuNtunUX6LtkUTOAmtfNJBE42w7bAHt/s1600/20170123_060147.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSiYmnH1GbtCFr4WhTwbj48z_edcWemY7Wd4qXbFWizVqrAg9d9RNV6U3sJW0cVLGzSjXSTqG1xKaEhdQ14abB720O5r6Yq4LGpS221iR1ig0xeGuNtunUX6LtkUTOAmtfNJBE42w7bAHt/s400/20170123_060147.jpg" width="400"></a></div>
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Since nobody could tell me exactly which color the windows and doors were painted in, I used a bit of modelers license and painted them turquoise. This is a color which I often saw on stucco structures and also used on several Santa Fe depots in the Southwest.<br>
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Test fitting the depot on the layout.<br>
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The finished outhouse.<br>
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From the photos, I copied the depot lettering and tried to reproduce it as best as I could. I used the carbon copying method, by blackening the back of the paper with my pencil and pasting it directly on the wall.<br>
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It worked out quite well.<br>
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With a black marker pen I followed the pencil lines. I'm not totally happy with the outcome, because the lettering turned out to be too bold. I will probably redo it with a finer marker.<br>
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I glued a sheet of scale lumber to the baseboard to represent the concrete base and platform for the depot. After the glue had dried I painted it a concrete color.<br>
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Then I started with the scenicking of the depot scene. As ground cover I used real beach sand which I collected at the beach in Belgium near our annual vacation resort. I sifted the sand to remove small pebbles and clamshell debris and fixed it with a mix of white glue and distilled water. I wetted the entire area with a spray bottle of wet water (Isopropyl Alcohol added to the distilled water)<br>
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Woodland Scenics ground foam and static grass was applied while the ground was still wet.<br>
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There are still some details missing, but palm trees are so characteristic for Southern California, so that I had to plant these first.<br>
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Half of the depot area is finsihed. The rest to the far end of the room will follow after I modeled the bluffs to the left side against the backdrop and the large rocks protecting the tracks from being washed away by the waves. Unfortunately there will only be a very small strip of beach left.<br>
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As always, stay tuned for updates.Alain Kaphttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06075703526554791495noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-198824207257015226.post-65958140458497362592017-01-24T15:20:00.001+01:002017-01-24T15:36:58.868+01:00San Clemente OuthouseThe only other structure near the San Clemente Depot was the outhouse. Like the depot it was a stucco structure in the Spanish Revival style with red tiled roof.<br />
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It is only partly visible in the foreground of the above picture. The other pictures from trackside shows enough to approximate its appearance.<br />
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Construction of the four walls is staight forward using .040" plain styrene sheet. I braced the corners with .080 x .080 square styrene strips.<br />
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I nibbled the door openings with the Micro Mark nibbler tool.<br />
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I could not cut out the small windows with the nibbler tool, so I drilled holes in each corner to guide my hobby knife. With a small file I made the final adjustments for the small windows to fit properly. I used small Grandt Line four-pane windows inserted from inside to make them look like masonry windows. The wood frame serves as glueing surface inside the building. <br />
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Construction of the roof was some kind of trial and error. I glued a narrow strip of styrene along the center for the peak of the roof. Then I measured and approximated the triangular roof parts and glued them in place as shown in the pictures above.<br />
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The same procedure was applied for the trapezoidal roof parts. <br />
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After the glue had set, I glued the ridge tiles in place.<br />
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Now the little structure was ready for the paint shop<br />
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Finished model on the layout. As a final touch I added the mortar lines along the ridge tiles with light grey paint applied with a small brush.<br />
<br />Alain Kaphttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06075703526554791495noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-198824207257015226.post-51423060110177512972017-01-18T14:11:00.000+01:002017-01-18T14:11:26.280+01:00San Clemente, CA on my layoutAnother signature stop on my home layout, besides San Juan Capistrano, is San Clemente. Here's where the Surf Line really hits the surf or in other words the Pacific Ocean. The tracks line the ocean only a couple of feet away and getting off the train you are on the beach right away. <br />
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San Clemente
gained a new depot in 1931. Built by the ATSF, the one-storey structure
was designed in the Spanish Revival style; a low gabled roof of red tile
sheltered walls of white stucco. It was a combination depot with a
freight room at one end, indicated by a heavy wood door and lack of
windows. The passenger waiting room was marked by a small pavilion with a
segmented arch entryway. The depot only remained opened nine years
before it was closed and then torn down in 1964. (exerpt from http://www.greatamericanstations.com)<br />
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There are not many pictures or information about the tiny stucco depot. I had to start from these few pictures, a drawing and the dimensions of its foot print.<br />
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The drawing of the depot is on the first pages of the Coast Line Depots book and at least shows the trackside view of the depot. I enlarged the drawing on a copier until I reached the scale length of the building. Verifying the height of standard door and window sizes, I finally had a pretty good plan to work from. I approximated the depth of the depot and comparing it with the photos I was ready to start my next scratchbuilding project.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4ZJe-YhvWZIIi4pUopN_VNpip3_kcnDfT43I1wbDOnIjpUQ9N8Nu9Xvy5iD2OscrmuZL7TbjR4LDtepIS6CW1tja6QHitDRG-Z-WF2QZ66rQPu3ianIrnyab4h8_ypXTlw7c-BeWhKVFb/s1600/IMG-20170106-WA0011.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4ZJe-YhvWZIIi4pUopN_VNpip3_kcnDfT43I1wbDOnIjpUQ9N8Nu9Xvy5iD2OscrmuZL7TbjR4LDtepIS6CW1tja6QHitDRG-Z-WF2QZ66rQPu3ianIrnyab4h8_ypXTlw7c-BeWhKVFb/s320/IMG-20170106-WA0011.jpg" width="320" /></a><br />
I must admid, that the beginning of the construction already started almost six years ago. I completed the freight room and the office building to the stage in the above picture. Other commitments and projects had higher priorities that this depot.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibM0hlEC4XQRu-wKR-3VQhwzq-9to2vcbU2DAtfdQxQCX2Vy3N6DBh42oRO_Gtjezhj4_wyuPVAYjZeYWwD5EqgNvEL92hpqCvrMDqZKpAEi9EIWy_r0vffiIgFUgo4FlQE8wzo6cLyhUD/s1600/IMG-20170106-WA0038.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibM0hlEC4XQRu-wKR-3VQhwzq-9to2vcbU2DAtfdQxQCX2Vy3N6DBh42oRO_Gtjezhj4_wyuPVAYjZeYWwD5EqgNvEL92hpqCvrMDqZKpAEi9EIWy_r0vffiIgFUgo4FlQE8wzo6cLyhUD/s200/IMG-20170106-WA0038.jpg" width="200" /></a></div>
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgU33AneIpW4LtTAv_5_RJ6q9dIaqWGTpuMI2yiJ-c4tfOk9me1D5iyGGxl-hxvMmXWt5b9TwEQPFlGGFknNunTJ_nWUJoja9lKwZDBNIMB4GRz-xVbRAVCGpEgSnWy2CDTQXBEBbSn5CnL/s1600/IMG-20170106-WA0040.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgU33AneIpW4LtTAv_5_RJ6q9dIaqWGTpuMI2yiJ-c4tfOk9me1D5iyGGxl-hxvMmXWt5b9TwEQPFlGGFknNunTJ_nWUJoja9lKwZDBNIMB4GRz-xVbRAVCGpEgSnWy2CDTQXBEBbSn5CnL/s320/IMG-20170106-WA0040.jpg" width="320" /></a>The passenger shelter was the next segment of the depot that I built. By looking at the pictures and the drawing it looks like the depot was built in three steps, like I did. Not only the different building parts are unique, but also the orientation and the shape of the three roofs.<br />
It is certainly easier to build a standard structure under one roof, than this one. But that's what makes if a special challenge.<br />
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On the passenger shelter roof there is another smaller roof topped off with an ornate chimney. The slope of the smaller roof is the same than the main roof.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0Ji0-vLSkjx744v_lnvwNk1jQKFTvS8R1RzRrKtDrR7nobIc_p2PRpn7uMsn4dam-OT2vMU092k0bVaBPtWAptlzcbFYNiuVgmxMLioEN2KXnm20XDZG2d9HLhRfHhWCm9P-NFQFJXcuI/s1600/20170107_173351.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="192" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0Ji0-vLSkjx744v_lnvwNk1jQKFTvS8R1RzRrKtDrR7nobIc_p2PRpn7uMsn4dam-OT2vMU092k0bVaBPtWAptlzcbFYNiuVgmxMLioEN2KXnm20XDZG2d9HLhRfHhWCm9P-NFQFJXcuI/s320/20170107_173351.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjR3743qu03yUYsGI7tKizHcPh2JJSArIWGAISovqIfJCwxkF6WHqLOlLZndOZrNUt-Zp4p58h2oJylyt761klu-KRa7JWJDdKcLFF010XOkWQoB8u_Ynm8Sn8T2-5sfgXxIhgPGmz66ohg/s1600/20170107_171655.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="120" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjR3743qu03yUYsGI7tKizHcPh2JJSArIWGAISovqIfJCwxkF6WHqLOlLZndOZrNUt-Zp4p58h2oJylyt761klu-KRa7JWJDdKcLFF010XOkWQoB8u_Ynm8Sn8T2-5sfgXxIhgPGmz66ohg/s200/20170107_171655.jpg" width="200" /></a>I built the chimney from scrap bits and pieces.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEielZrwTawdL_H4TazkHgCU-VVL732LT3LSi_od9cY3fSwcrsOhVZmdygFSJedJWX1bbfhyphenhyphenXoN9_hqjJrmSacd-n-bvh1G4wWpTo1NO23d1PZSwIcpC8ivqrsZ88tB14ME8b3WZWnFXTvLf/s1600/20170107_175039.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="192" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEielZrwTawdL_H4TazkHgCU-VVL732LT3LSi_od9cY3fSwcrsOhVZmdygFSJedJWX1bbfhyphenhyphenXoN9_hqjJrmSacd-n-bvh1G4wWpTo1NO23d1PZSwIcpC8ivqrsZ88tB14ME8b3WZWnFXTvLf/s320/20170107_175039.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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The walls of the chimney are brick sheet and the diamond shaped elements are from a piece of Kibri styrene chain link fencing. The top cover is a piece of angle stock.<br />
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The walls were all built using plain styrene sheet. To achieve the stucco finish I used stucco sheets made by Plastruct, laminated to the plain walls.<br />
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Then I glued the three building segments together.<br />
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All I could guess from my available pictures was one rear window. The freight room had no windows and the passenger shelter an arched opening to the rear also. <br />
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Now the depot is basically ready for the paint shop. <br />
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This will be the location of the depot on my layout.<br />
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This was a somehow challenging build, but again it is aother signature structure that I'm proud to have on my Surf Line.<br />
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Stay tuned for another structure built from pictures only, the San Clemente outhouse. Alain Kaphttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06075703526554791495noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-198824207257015226.post-32542066244770377242016-08-19T10:07:00.001+02:002016-08-19T10:08:50.938+02:00Yet another Tank House After I had finished my John Krohn Tank House, which consists mainly in one single structure, I wanted to build yet another one, a little bit different.<br />
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While browsing the net for pictures of tank houses, I stumbled over the Stanley Ranch Tank House that's actually part of the <a href="http://www.ci.garden-grove.ca.us//HistoricalSociety/tankhouse" target="_blank">Garden Grove Historical Society</a>'s Stanley Ranch Museum Historical Village.<br />
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The tank tower reminded me of a railroad watertank and I figured out that if I would find a suitable model, I would simply plank the timber bents and add a shed to it as a stand-in for a free-lanced close-to-prototype tank house.<br />
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The search for a suitable model proved to be not as easy as I'd expected. Most of the recent models were either too big or too expensive. I would only need the timber supports for my project and the rest will go to my parts box, so a cheaper model was needed. Fortunately the Model Power Water Tank did the job.<br />
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I assembled the timber bents as per the instructions, using the base of the model as a guide to align the sides until the glue had dried. But before I assembled the supports I sanded the sides smooth to eliminate the bolt heads on the cross braces. I filled in strips of .020 styrene to obtain a equalized surface to glue the siding onto.<br />
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As a base for the long shed I used a Walthers office shanty which I had lying around already assembled. I discarded the window and door castings as well as the roof. I cut pieces of novelty siding to size to fit around the tank tower. I made a cutout for a Grandt Line 5-panel door casting.<br />
I also covered the tank platform with scribed siding to simulate planking and lined the sides with strip styrene.<br />
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I cut openings for a window and a freight door into the right siding of the shed. On the tank tower I also used the protruding timbers with the small platform. It serves as an access platform to the water tank. This tank house has no interior stairway, so I will lean a ladder against the small platform to get to the tank.<br />
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Because the tank tower walls lean inwards, I had to fit the sidewalls of the shed accordingly. This is achieved by a bit of trial and error and a few passes with a sanding stick. Then I glued the two sidewalls to each side of the Walthers shed. As shown in the picture, I used the locations of one side and the rear window as a guide for the openings of the new windows. Because the new side walls are longer than the original Walthers shed, I installed the freight door there. I also fitted the missing floor in between the original shed and the tank using a piece of .060" styrene. <br />
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For the end wall and the window location I used the Walthers shed as a guide and glued the new wall directly to the old shed wall.<br />
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Contrary to the John Krohn Tank House, which has an enclosed water tank, this one is open. The tank on the Stanley Ranch Tank House is rather small and the one from the railroad water tank too big. I looked around for something in between. I choose a piece from a mailing tube with 2" diameter. I left the plastic plug in one side and planked the side with 1x6 and 1x4 scale lumber strips cut to size using my NWSL Chopper.<br />
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I applied a small bead of carpenters glue to the carton base and spread it with an old paintbrush. Then I applied the wood strips. This goes very straight forward.<br />
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I made a new roof for the shed using Plastruct Shingle sheet cut to size.<br />
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I stained the water tank with a mix of a few drops of India Ink and Isopropyl Alcohol. I applied the stain with an old paint brush. As this was my vacation project I had forgotten to take the stain mix with me. Otherwise I would have stained the wood before applying it to the mailing tube.<br />
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This view shows the ladder leaning to the small platform to access the water tank.<br />
All the subassemblies and roof are only put in place and not glued yet. Now the tank house is ready for the paint shop.<br />
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Stay tuned for the finish. Alain Kaphttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06075703526554791495noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-198824207257015226.post-6125969287646842392016-03-22T13:50:00.001+01:002016-03-22T13:50:23.254+01:00Building a Tank House (Part 4 and finish) Just in time for the World Water Day, I finished my Tank House. I placed it in an appropriate surrounding for the photo, although this is not the final emplacement.<br />
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But to this step, there were still some other to do first.<br />
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Using my jig to hold the stringers, assembling the stairs was fairly easy. I attached the stairs to the second floor landing on the upper end and to a piece of plain styrene, representing a concrete footing, at the other end. <br />
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Then I glued the posts in place, taking care to keep everything straight.<br />
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I used 4x8 strip styrene for the handrails. I've cut the different pieces to size and then sanded each part until it fit snuggly between the posts. A drop of liquid cement attached them permanently.<br />
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I painted the structure white and after the paint had dried over night, I installed the staircase. As you'll see I added another sheet of styrene, to represent a concrete slab under the staircase. I tried it without, but the whole assembly would be too woobly and could only be fixed correctly when placing it on the layout.<br />
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While the glue was setting, I turned to the roof. I covered the styrene roof panels with double sided tape. This sticks very well to styrene and gives a more secure hold for the shingles.<br />
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I inteded to use the tab shingles from AMB Laser Kit, but found the package almost empty, so I decided to use the diamond shingles instead.<br />
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The shingle sheets from AMB come on self sticking backing and they are easily attached strip by strip. I approximately measured the strips I needed for each row and cut them to size. Then I peeled the backing paper off and attached the strip to the sticky roof. When finished with one side I just cut the extending strips off along the roof line with scissors.<br />
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For additional information I can only recommend the book "Tankhouse, Californias redwood water towers from a bygone era, by Thomas Cooper. I fortunately found a signed copy by the author on the internet. It shows many different types of tankhouses and what the owners made out of them since municipal water management made most of them obsolete.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYRWkuRrpYVL-YvbQwHtZMOmVTmmW3UmOpPEV9EzWWq54vwtnIT4zgR4HNiNXbuxR9NhPogKo-4u4hcvq6_UPmIALv-5vwep5eczWX64Meg3_XaHTaOUHcmDbKWru6LnujChmENNJtrhfy/s1600/20160321_061507.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYRWkuRrpYVL-YvbQwHtZMOmVTmmW3UmOpPEV9EzWWq54vwtnIT4zgR4HNiNXbuxR9NhPogKo-4u4hcvq6_UPmIALv-5vwep5eczWX64Meg3_XaHTaOUHcmDbKWru6LnujChmENNJtrhfy/s320/20160321_061507.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
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Finally putting the different sub-assemblies together was a snap.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQrZZX3vmJySZVNhVVAPPNQLTFYz_OACCT5mHoLLHov6ZjhxBImeDfVSpmpCgr3Fxv5u7LUvAydGQE9vwgPAZnAGxPPTFM1BAtdtsrSoHEAokfTNRWyu2IuHd76qg0wjumWKPfDqWia4pD/s1600/20160321_061544.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQrZZX3vmJySZVNhVVAPPNQLTFYz_OACCT5mHoLLHov6ZjhxBImeDfVSpmpCgr3Fxv5u7LUvAydGQE9vwgPAZnAGxPPTFM1BAtdtsrSoHEAokfTNRWyu2IuHd76qg0wjumWKPfDqWia4pD/s320/20160321_061544.jpg" width="240" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8Oi6PCdBOoA0g44sotsg8xiAx8MScDDoh_4MX7MoivgKCFWD5Dp-Vnb8nMz3D_FlzTXEWg6bcvd32RTdXNK9F6NqGJhXMZyjPvY25q0ysqmZqFoy9YkJJagKJV7JomxvsWlOo5_CRc6_9/s1600/20160321_061535.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8Oi6PCdBOoA0g44sotsg8xiAx8MScDDoh_4MX7MoivgKCFWD5Dp-Vnb8nMz3D_FlzTXEWg6bcvd32RTdXNK9F6NqGJhXMZyjPvY25q0ysqmZqFoy9YkJJagKJV7JomxvsWlOo5_CRc6_9/s320/20160321_061535.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
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Here are the views from all the four sides. Only need some decent weathering and than it's ready for the layout.<br />
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Oh yes, I also added the shaft that powered the pump. The final place for the tankhouse is still to be determined. I shot it in an appropriate environment for now.<br />
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Well that's it for this project. Stay tuned for more to come.<br />
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<br />Alain Kaphttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06075703526554791495noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-198824207257015226.post-45420218253351121472016-03-21T15:59:00.000+01:002016-03-21T16:02:59.763+01:00RMC layout articleIf you want to read how I built my home layout, Railroad Model Craftsman published my article in the October 2015 issue and it's titled <a href="https://shop.whiteriverproductions.com/products/rmc8410" target="_blank">Modeling AT&SF's Surf Line in Germany</a><br />
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If you didn't read it, dig the copy out of your magazine stash or get a back issue from White River Productions.<br />
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The article has 11 pages and a detailled track plan. The issue is worth its money because it is loaded with more great articles.<br />
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<br />Alain Kaphttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06075703526554791495noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-198824207257015226.post-23380332416517486672016-03-18T13:34:00.001+01:002016-03-18T15:59:38.215+01:00Building a Tank House (Part 3)In this installment I will document the finishing touches of the Tank House, which proved also to be the most delicate and trickiest part of the whole building process.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjeU3qEwrYFoZsA5WPa7evNljoFp4jTf_led8KMelrzat64A-KrNqS3lFvuAM6-nQ44m7KeFNeHZ3-z1cBeLXIFBqgUk-qT4qIfwRQYHxL6GyiA8fn1uWS-VWrURDbh1a0v5_CFQA0Y8dqj/s1600/20160317_205111%255B1%255D.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjeU3qEwrYFoZsA5WPa7evNljoFp4jTf_led8KMelrzat64A-KrNqS3lFvuAM6-nQ44m7KeFNeHZ3-z1cBeLXIFBqgUk-qT4qIfwRQYHxL6GyiA8fn1uWS-VWrURDbh1a0v5_CFQA0Y8dqj/s320/20160317_205111%255B1%255D.jpg" width="320" /></a> On many tank houses, the stairs leading to the second floor, were inside the building.
Here it's on the outside. As there are no ready-made stairs available
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To do so, I first built a jig to hold and space the stair stringers
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The stringers are from Campbell, cut to fit. The treads are
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I only added a small drop of glue to the stringer, where the treads would go, with a needle, to avoid glueing the stringers to the jig. After the glue on the treads had dried I added more glue to fix them more securely.<br />
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Then I build a small platform and attached the stairsway to it. I drilled two holes into the platform side and inserted two bits of .019" brass wire. I also drilled two holes into the siding where the platform will be located. These pins allow for minor adjustments when building the rest of the staircase. Also I need to paint the structure and then the stairs will be in the way. <br />
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A first test fit of the stairway attached to the platform. As I mentioned before, this will be a very delicate assembly.<br />
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On this picture you may already guess the final look.<br />
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To attach the supporting posts, I fixed the assembly into the magnetic jig to hold it square and flat.<br />
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Then I turned to the windmill and added 2x4 steps. The original was wood and the model I use has a metal construction, but by adding the steps it almost looks right.<br />
I used a 2' wide scrap piece of styrene to space the steps. Then I applied a tiny drop of cement to attach the steps. <br />
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That's it for now. Hopefully more to come during the week-end if the announced nice weather doesn't keep me out of the basement. <br />
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Alain Kaphttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06075703526554791495noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-198824207257015226.post-26127515858911100692016-03-16T12:48:00.004+01:002016-03-18T15:53:29.409+01:00Building a Tank House (Part 2)Well, I started this project last summer already and due to other "obligations", it rested for some time.<br />
When I finally got back to it, I wasn't happy with what I had already accomplished on the tank house. The supporting structure wasn't trapezoidal enough, compared to the pictures and there were also other flaws in the construction of the roof etc. So finally I decided to start all over again. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBqgg2mo1yBaWpwL2mgH6TeUDz5FEa2ueIVgR65OjRSCjPRsE1Y3X54sWcpTFYUY0EUoghrYZkYPiEgoT8ZnehCNoaZpKWPMwefyt3uwGi8HhvIkywEWlK95Yzez4GyNHb3iJrmW1niGw6/s1600/20160307_211518.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBqgg2mo1yBaWpwL2mgH6TeUDz5FEa2ueIVgR65OjRSCjPRsE1Y3X54sWcpTFYUY0EUoghrYZkYPiEgoT8ZnehCNoaZpKWPMwefyt3uwGi8HhvIkywEWlK95Yzez4GyNHb3iJrmW1niGw6/s400/20160307_211518.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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On the picture above you see the "old" tank house, and in front of it, the new one. <br />
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The basic construction techniques stayed the same, so I don't cover these again except for some additional details I've added. You'll easily recognize the difference between both models. Above you see a first test-fit with the windmill.<br />
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During my research and the study of the six pictures from the Library of Congress site, I've found out that there are actually two more windows, one to the east and one on the north side. Using the same tried and true method, I also incorporated these windows into my new construction.<br />
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While I was at it, I also fitted a floor in. I built the enclosed tank to be removable and thought about adding an interior to the second floor. These parts of the tankhouse were often used as storage room, or housing for crop workers.<br />
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The tank top with the triangular parts for the roof supports, before assembly.<br />
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The ventilation slats are represented with rectangular pieces of clapboard siding, framed with strip styrene. Note the peaked trim and the sill. These are details I did not do on the first model.<br />
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The finished roof supporting assembly is covered with .020" scribed styrene siding with the plain side up, simulating the boards when viewed from below. <br />
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I've cut bits of 2x4 strip styrene to represent the rafters. The roof has a two foot overhang on each side, so the rafters are visible and need to be there.<br />
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The finished rafters. Note the roof cut-out for the windmill. <br />
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With the roof completed, I test-fitted the sub-assemblies to check the overall appearance. You probably noted that the windmill is a different one. Meanwhile I decided to use the finer detailled Van Dyke windmill from Walthers.<br />
I shortened the legs and only used the upper part of the frame. <br />
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Please drop by, to see the finishing touches.Alain Kaphttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06075703526554791495noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-198824207257015226.post-288649715005089402016-03-14T14:39:00.000+01:002016-03-18T15:52:30.563+01:00Building a Tank House (Part 1) I don't know how you do it, but I have so many projects, sometimes running in parallel to each other, that keep me busy and give me some time to think things over. So here I am back again with another iconic structure for my Surf Line layout.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjteFLz9KONekh69_VQzbUkfx_dHvjbdfPZHwtCbaD9WhiFJFMCJMyxtzdlXa1mnUQPPQjYOY3AnhjO4tRAwCkIP0XDHCZhT6Yn8h3rpCIVvxCS67cyRs2pQI8PhGWB1omfGl4xR-zw1dhS/s1600/018671pv.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjteFLz9KONekh69_VQzbUkfx_dHvjbdfPZHwtCbaD9WhiFJFMCJMyxtzdlXa1mnUQPPQjYOY3AnhjO4tRAwCkIP0XDHCZhT6Yn8h3rpCIVvxCS67cyRs2pQI8PhGWB1omfGl4xR-zw1dhS/s320/018671pv.jpg" width="257" /></a>In fact a Tank House is nothing different than a railroad water tank, except that it is almost a unique structure only found in the western parts of the United States, like California and less in Texas and Oregon.<br />
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The Tank Houses resemble an enclosed water tank, what they basically are. The supporting legs are covered with siding and the tank itself sits on a platform and is sometimes also enclosed.<br />
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There are so many different styles and I did not find a single picture which would suggest that there ever existed a standard design.<br />
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While searching the web for pictures or plans, I found this interesting looking structure with a windmill attached to it.<br />
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On the site of The Library of Congress I found b/w pictures as well as drawings for the <a href="https://www.loc.gov/item/ca0977/" target="_blank">John Krohn Tank House</a>. It is located in the Santa Clara County in California and compiled by the HABS under the survey number CA-2111 (Historical American Building Survey).<br />
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The description tells us the following:<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCLWvKAdECZ9j6G0rbbRKs0QHpx2icXidqdIrMu_E08oERPXphgvRo5uY4yxG_GWY5dIoSd6GmWTfIFLHIdJ3T8bpZz7PmV7SaAk1XyVoT8j0if7GgJvO3d-On6GTzhHnVHWx8UjwyRSMj/s1600/00003v.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="251" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCLWvKAdECZ9j6G0rbbRKs0QHpx2icXidqdIrMu_E08oERPXphgvRo5uY4yxG_GWY5dIoSd6GmWTfIFLHIdJ3T8bpZz7PmV7SaAk1XyVoT8j0if7GgJvO3d-On6GTzhHnVHWx8UjwyRSMj/s320/00003v.jpg" width="320" /></a>"This structure is typical of the hundreds perhaps thousands of tank
houses that once dotted the Santa Clara Valley landscape. They provided
a means by which ground water from private wells was stored and later
delivered under pressure for domestic consumption and/or agricultural
irrigation. This one was built for John Krohn, who moved to San Martin
from Chicago in or about the year 1912. Its redwood storage tank has
been removed, but a windmill remains in place. A portion of the
enclosed tower may have housed a laundry room at one time" (Source Library of Congres)<br />
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Now with all the necessary information on hand I was able to start this project without guessing. <br />
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Using my scale ruler I traced the dimensions of the four trapezoidal sides of the supporting structure (or first and second floors) on a sheet of Evergreen .060" plain styrene and cut them out. <br />
Then I scribed the location of the doors and windows on the wall sections with an Xacto hobby knife. <br />
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With the same hobby knife I drilled a hole in the center of the window location. This goes fairly easy, but you could also use a drill bit. The hole needs to be large enough to stick the jaw of the Micro Mark Nibbler through.<br />
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This handy tools "bites" the unwanted pieces of styrene away. I worked along the score lines until the opening was cut out. Usually there is only minor sanding necessary to make the door and window castings fit properly.<br />
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The plain styrene only serves as a core for my structure walls. I laminate the exterior siding and sometimes also the interior sidings, if I plan an interior, to this core.<br />
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In the case of this structure I used Evergreen V-groove siding. With a liberal amount of liquid cement, I glued the plain wall sections to the back of the siding. Before cutting out the wall sections the glue needs to dry thoroughly.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhX9KbSNJp6hAy2_0lIcYCQDbJ5YPTNspHuOjMbL3hQejmwhT367vsxAASWuii55F3VL7aZk_JT6TU5RFljA7kb5WeaEdimA3z88ACnnZTzse2S_wJpNp7WavopJapHn3iF6SDeoPeFnH1F/s1600/20150818_160027.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhX9KbSNJp6hAy2_0lIcYCQDbJ5YPTNspHuOjMbL3hQejmwhT367vsxAASWuii55F3VL7aZk_JT6TU5RFljA7kb5WeaEdimA3z88ACnnZTzse2S_wJpNp7WavopJapHn3iF6SDeoPeFnH1F/s320/20150818_160027.jpg" width="240" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1fmgaxnjI0FTnorLj9te_Y5LX7ueGInNXkGCLjEpxF3C0JqQeyJYssE7TSMx1BqXxvXZETdvDGq6WEJEXUNDViWHhlRDUNC5-wRCd8b5cV3OR_Vf-y53F79bypMZrV6H7M8QTEj6q7SiM/s1600/20150818_155917.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1fmgaxnjI0FTnorLj9te_Y5LX7ueGInNXkGCLjEpxF3C0JqQeyJYssE7TSMx1BqXxvXZETdvDGq6WEJEXUNDViWHhlRDUNC5-wRCd8b5cV3OR_Vf-y53F79bypMZrV6H7M8QTEj6q7SiM/s320/20150818_155917.jpg" width="240" /></a>On two opposite wall sections I cut the sidings flush to the core and on the other two leave the siding longer, at least the thickness of the core plus the siding. These "ears" give the structure additional strength without glueing corner braces. This is especially critical when adding an interior.<br />
From the back side I drill small holes in the four corners. These keep the hobby knife from slipping and damaging the siding. Here I used a .010" siding. This is easy to cut from the back. <br />
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The four wall sections are now ready for assembly.<br />
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I think the Campbell windmill would give a good stand-in for the tank house.<br />
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Thanks for following my blog and stay tuned for the next installment.<br />
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<br />Alain Kaphttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06075703526554791495noreply@blogger.com6tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-198824207257015226.post-41808779551857582422015-08-03T13:23:00.000+02:002015-08-03T13:36:31.331+02:00Modeling an orange grove (Final part) This installment completes my orange grove project. Although it is a relatively small spot on my layout, I had to build 50 orange trees. For this grove I only explored two methods of upgrading ready-made trees from Woodland Scenics and Life Like. The cellulose sponge method as described by the <a href="http://www.s169351013.onlinehome.us/clinic_trees.html" target="_blank">Corona Model Railroad Society</a> will be explored on the next grove. <br />
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Initially I only had 15 Life Like wire-brush trees, so I needed to add clump foliage to some 35 deciduous trees from Woodland Scenics (# TR1502) These trees are 1 1/4 to 2" tall, but compared to an almost round orange tree, they looked rather bare.<br />
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I tried to glue the foliage with carpenters white glue, but quickly found out that it took too long to set and that the foliage clumps did not adhere well, ending in a real mess.<br />
Hob-E-Tac adhesive from Woodland Scenics proved to be the ideal glue for this project. Although it sticks to almost everything, it holds the foliage clumps tight in place.<br />
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I already used this adhesive successfully when I covered the San Juan Capistrano depot with vines.<br />
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I filled the tree with clump foliage until it had its distinctive round shape<br />
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After the adhesive had dried I sprayed the trees with 3M (or similar) spray adhesive and rolled them into a finer grade of foliage.<br />
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The final step was an overspray of strong hairspray and then I sprinkled the Woodland Scenics oranges all around. <br />
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After the whole batch had dried overnight, they were ready to be planted.<br />
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Before finishing the project I continued the orchard on the backdrop, adding one small Woodland Scenics (#TR1501) deciduous tree at the beginning of each painted row<br />
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The smaller trees in the left center of the picture above give a bit of distance to the scene. When inspected closer, they could as well be young orange trees.<br />
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If I compare the two tree types I would rather use the Life Like trees again, because they already have the round shape needed for mature citrus trees. The filling in of the bare spots on the Woodland Scenics trees takes more time, but therefore gives more variety in the shape of the trees.<br />
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Well this resumes my orange grove project. I'll concentrate on finishing my country road and concentrate on another important scenic element for Southern California - palm trees. I have a bunch of ready-made and kit palms, but I'll also try to build some from scratch.<br />
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Stay tuned!<br />
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Oh, BTW. I thank all my faithfull followers of this blog for their precious help and advice all along this project. <br />
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<br />Alain Kaphttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06075703526554791495noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-198824207257015226.post-77513018001436534702015-07-31T17:01:00.001+02:002019-03-09T12:28:11.438+01:00Modeling an orange grove (Part 4)<br />
The weather forecast announces frost for the night. Time to inspect the orchard heaters and fill them up with oil. The smudge pots were developed after a disastrous freeze in Southern California in January 1913 wiped out a whole crop.<br />
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When the air temperature reaches 29°F (-2°C) the pots are ignited. For each additional degree of drop, another hole is opened on the control cap. Below 25°F there's nothing more that can be done to enhance the heating effects.<br />
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The citrus growers needed a lot of workers to keep the pots burning.<br />
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<i>Photo from a brochure</i></div>
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A smudge pot or orchard heater is an oil-burning device used to prevent frost on fruit trees. Usually it has a large round base with a chimney coming out of the middle of the base. The smudge pot is placed between trees in an orchard. The burning oil creates some heat, but more importantly, a large amount of smoke, particulates, carbon dioxide and water vapor. This artificial smog forms a blanket that blocks infrared light, thereby preventing radiative cooling that would otherwise caus or worsen frost. (Low clouds can have a similar "infrared blanket" effect, which is why cloudy nights tend to be warmer than clear-sky nights. (Source Wikipedia)<br />
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Century Foundry Metal Works (www.showcaseminiatures.com) sells HO scale smudge pots. I painted the white metal castings aluminum with some black on the chimney and also added some Rust-All. Then I placed them between the rows of orange trees. <br />
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This smudge pot has been recently lit off, as the exhaust on a fully hot pot becomes almost invisible with a mere hint of red/orange flame. Note that the filler/flue cap is in the fully open position (all holes open) (Source: Wikipedia)<br />
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In this picture from the Library of Congress we see a view of smudge pots in an orange grove on Victoria Avenue in Arlington Heights, Riverside, California. Following WWII, air pollution captured the public's attention and orchard heaters, like smoking diesel trucks and open burning at garbage dumps, were a signigicant and visible source of smod. In 1950, the Orange County Air Pollution Control District adopted a regulation prohibiting the use of dirty fuels, including old tires and used motor oil in smudge pots.<br />
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During the 1950s, growers started using wind machines in place of smudge pots. But orchard heaters only fell out of use completely by the 1970's (!!)<br />
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The ground between the rows of citrus trees was regularly plowed and disked to smooth the earth. Weeds were controlled by chemicals like weedoil and others.<br />
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Stay tuned for more on modeling an orange grove<br />
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Alain Kaphttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06075703526554791495noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-198824207257015226.post-78540203054784124202015-07-09T12:58:00.001+02:002015-07-30T14:48:37.591+02:00Modeling an orange grove (Part 3)<br />
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The first row of orange trees is planted. In the meantime I learned some new facts about the "old" method of irrigation. Every row of orange trees has two ditches or furrows on each side. One close to the stem and the other along the drip line of the trees. Unfortunately my ditches were already cut and the ground cover in, so I only have one ditch on each side.<br />
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I've found the two photos above on the Library of Congress site. The left picture shows a weir at the head of a row of orange trees, with the irrigation furrows on both sides. The right view also shows two standpipes that distribute the water to the weirs via underground pipeline. Both pictures were shot in an orchard in Arlington Heights, Riverside, California<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMF0KnS20W462pxg27GIQWRxcwAKOoUWqs44hm8pyv_nMZj1wdD2hSmgdXGt7S46UO-83v7OwiJ6nK0j6NIZUNqdBiyDcPy75yW10C51bMUr0O3SYMJ1xO15h9HpqsrGkQJ_ys98D7AZqp/s1600/20150706_060914.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="120" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMF0KnS20W462pxg27GIQWRxcwAKOoUWqs44hm8pyv_nMZj1wdD2hSmgdXGt7S46UO-83v7OwiJ6nK0j6NIZUNqdBiyDcPy75yW10C51bMUr0O3SYMJ1xO15h9HpqsrGkQJ_ys98D7AZqp/s200/20150706_060914.jpg" width="200" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSDW-5pu6zzC0xrD7XHey0Oa9Ua74yVoGBHOF0tGb9TFstgOyEvfhBxy8sC8iyRlZ4VChcvw3RjzY_OKXG6nVxItjiTUISxFGazNoqk_WDeXp407mB6bC0fhMtT4P4qRm-1GIkl0qVlQSo/s1600/20150704_154850.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="120" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSDW-5pu6zzC0xrD7XHey0Oa9Ua74yVoGBHOF0tGb9TFstgOyEvfhBxy8sC8iyRlZ4VChcvw3RjzY_OKXG6nVxItjiTUISxFGazNoqk_WDeXp407mB6bC0fhMtT4P4qRm-1GIkl0qVlQSo/s200/20150704_154850.jpg" width="200" /></a><br />
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I tried Woodland Scenics Realistic Water to fill the ditches with water, but found the next morning that everything had dried up an the water was gone. I wanted that a "wet" look remains along the ditches so I thought that some kind of varnish could possibly do the trick.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcM6d_Hosy_vwASLJUOZnuysGEUY6MG51CE-1FCBQQyO6u39KM8sMM2IxXsZRdvB1neFwT31-QmsryY83B5zheUEALxb4xUmgO71-xEOF-IQvTBIwrLutj0WDHukAcds1PNlbkXqpBr3C7/s1600/20150704_154717.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="120" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcM6d_Hosy_vwASLJUOZnuysGEUY6MG51CE-1FCBQQyO6u39KM8sMM2IxXsZRdvB1neFwT31-QmsryY83B5zheUEALxb4xUmgO71-xEOF-IQvTBIwrLutj0WDHukAcds1PNlbkXqpBr3C7/s200/20150704_154717.jpg" width="200" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8dsNV-7OzeHe4I2mOiCQqh95mk1AeToIOOGOeNRMZYuQMx_FthmWvNH0j7tCZmEk7CmxMd845vGjN9vlpu6qX-D0_J7IexMxAlKMbvVPYoIZVcWSaEisPC0YypYtWGqTNQB8v_LSBlCgO/s1600/20150706_060906.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="120" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8dsNV-7OzeHe4I2mOiCQqh95mk1AeToIOOGOeNRMZYuQMx_FthmWvNH0j7tCZmEk7CmxMd845vGjN9vlpu6qX-D0_J7IexMxAlKMbvVPYoIZVcWSaEisPC0YypYtWGqTNQB8v_LSBlCgO/s200/20150706_060906.jpg" width="200" /></a><br />
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A bottle of Testors Glosscote came in handy (I rarely use the glossy). With a pipette or eye dropper I filled the ditches again and the gloss seeped into the ground around the ditch leaving a wet appearance<br />
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My first batch of trees was ready to plant. In Part 2 I described how I upbraded the uniform Life Like orange trees with added foliage and Woodland Scenics oranges. To plant the trees I cut the simulated roots platform off and pushed the trunk as far into the hole in the ground until the trunk was completely inserted. On mature trees, the trunks are not visible.<br />
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Now I only need to upgrade some 35 Woodland Scenics trees to fill the rest of the orchard<br />
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The Life Like "wire bottle brush" trees look very realistic after additional foliage is added and they are a cheap alternative versus other brands ready made trees and less messy than the self made sponge trees. In fact no manufacturer produces realistic citrus trees at the moment, leaving us modelers to our own ingenuity.<br />
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In the meantime I also started to scenic the surroundings of the orchard. First was the country road that I made from 3mm thick cork and painted it asphalt grey. Weeds and grass along the road will finish off this scene.<br />
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Please stand by for more on modeling an orange grove!<br />
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<br />Alain Kaphttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06075703526554791495noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-198824207257015226.post-75790793840911291052015-06-25T12:55:00.001+02:002015-07-30T14:35:26.119+02:00Modeling an orange grove (Part 2)Over last weekend I found some time to work on my orchard on the layout.<br />
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A first mock-up with Orange tree, windmill, smudge oil tank, standpipe and weirs is shown above.<br />
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After I routed the furrows, I painted the base a brown color and sifted fine earth (from the backyard) into the wet paint.<br />
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The available orange trees don't look like the real thing, so some upgrading was necessary. I used ready made trees from Woodland Scenics and the Orange Trees from Life Like, although these have oranges added, they look like a wire brush, so I sprayed the trees with spray adhesive (3M or similar), waited until the glue was tacky and then rolled them into a mix of medium and dark ground cover. <br />
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In the back are the ready made trees from Woodland Scenics and in the foreground the upgraded Life Like trees with foliage and oranges added.<br />
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A first batch of some 20+ trees before I ran out of adhesive and foliage.<br />
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To attach the oranges I used a strong hairspray (the cheapest I could find, not my wife's, though) and sprinkled the Woodland Scenics oranges all around.<br />
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I sat the finished trees aside to dry. <br />
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Next weekend I will make the rest of the orange trees (about 50+ needed) and plant them. Some ballasting of the tracks and weeds along the orchard will be added also.<br />
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So as always, stay tuned for updates. <br />
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<br />Alain Kaphttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06075703526554791495noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-198824207257015226.post-34536573238344112802015-06-03T16:09:00.001+02:002015-06-25T08:25:42.195+02:00Modeling an orange grove (Part 1) My packing house is ready for the fruit. Time to plant some orange seedlings and get the fruit growing. <br />
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In the photo above we see the American Fruit Growers Packing House in San Juan Capistrano on my Surf Line layout.<br />
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On a bare spot just outside of Capistrano I laid out a grid pattern spaced 22' x 22'. At the intersections of the grid I will plant the orange trees.<br />
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I mocked up a first row of trees to see if there's enough space in between for the trucks that pick-up the Field boxes. I will rework these trees to look more like orange trees. The stumps will be inserted into the baseboard so that they are not visible.<br />
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The pipes in front of every row are stand-pipes for the irrigation system. The two tanks in the background will hold oil for the smudge pots. There will also be a small fruit stand on the country road.<br />
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The photo above shows a concrete standpipe standing in a citrus grove next to Interstate 5 near Capistrano that Bob Chaparro and Robert Simpson visited and documented during their visit.<br />
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I've cut the irrigation ditches freehand, with a router bit inserted into my Dremel motor tool, on both sides of the tree lines.<br />
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The ditches look like this with the concrete standpipes at the beginning of the rows.<br />
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The prototype standpipes are constructed from three 32" long concrete rings which are grouted together for a total of 8'8" tall. The diameter is 58". I found that the Tichy Train Group pipe loads have approximately the same size. I just needed to represent the grout lines. I applied two beads of CA all around the pipes and poured a filler powder over the CA. This powder may be used to fill crevices and bonds with CA. <br />
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When the CA had dried over night I glued some water pipes, trimmed from a kit sprue.<br />
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I used a round file to make the half round openings for the water to flow into the irrigation ditches.<br />
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The standpipes were normally covered with a wooden lid. I've cut the lids from a scrap piece of scribed siding using a compass cutter.<br />
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I painted the standpipes with concrete colour (Woodland Scenics Street color) and covered them with the wooden lids. Some are broken like on the prototype. <br />
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Stay tuned for the next step in modeling an orange grove.<br />
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<br />Alain Kaphttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06075703526554791495noreply@blogger.com8tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-198824207257015226.post-8706670036256441982015-04-04T11:34:00.001+02:002015-04-04T11:34:33.228+02:00Ford AA 1934 Leach Refuse Getter<br />
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Inspired by another photograph on ClassicRefuseTrucks.com, I challenged myself in scratchbuilding one of these garbage trucks. The picture above shows the unpainted model.<br />
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I have a couple of 1/87 scale Ford 1931 AA truck kits from Con-Cor with different body styles which I could easily swap against a new refuse body.<br />
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From the prototype picture I approximated the length and height of the garbage body. The width was defined by the width of the track chassis. I cut the floor and sides from .040" plain styrene. <br />
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I glued the one side to the floor using the magnets from the Micro Mark glueing jig to keep the assembly square.<br />
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After one side had dried, I glued the opposite side to the floor also.<br />
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To ensure that the side walls were spaced evenly with the floor, I inserted a piece of strip styrene like shown in the picture.<br />
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In the meanwhile I started construction on the collecting bucket using a piece of styrene tube, cut to the width of the body. I removed one side, giving a "U".<br />
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I glued a piece of .015" plain styrene to the front of the body. After this had dried thoroughly I attached one side of the roof using clamps to hold it in place. Because the body is curved, I waited until the glue had dried at the front edge before continuing to glue the roof along the curved side walls.<br />
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Using a "Curvograph" (that´s a ruler to draw eliptical, sinus etc curves) I sketched the special shape of the top lid brackets.<br />
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Taking the original photograph as a guide, I positioned the bracket on the side of the body.<br />
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When the glued had dried a trimmed and sanded the bracket smooth with the top.<br />
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Again, using the picture for reference, I added .010" plain styrene sides and rear panels to the bucket.<br />
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With all the brackets in place I glued the top lid to the roof of the body. I had to use four clamps to keep it in shape on the curved body until the glue set.<br />
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The Con-Cor kits don't feature an interior for the cab, so I scratchbuild one using scrap pieces of .040" plain styrene and C-channel as shown in the picture above. <br />
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Then using the cabs as a guide, I glued the interiors to my four truck chassis. The two on the left side will be for garbage trucks the third a produce truck and the one on the right will have a flatbed.<br />
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I contemplated a lot on how to represent the roller guides that lift the bucket to the roof top for unloading. Again I approximated the shape from the prototype picture and used a cutting compass, which has a scalpel blade insteat of a pencil tip, and cut the curved shape on .020" plain styrene.<br />
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I also fabricated two brackets to attach the bucket to the roller guide and placed the body on the truck chassis to check if everything fits.<br />
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I´m very pleased with my first attempt to scratch-build a truck only from a picture. Unfortunately I did not find any reference about what kind of garbage trucks were in use in Southern California during the 1940's. I will use some modelers license and suppose these vintage 1930's trucks were still in use in smaller towns, considering that because of the war effort there was no money for newer garbage trucks anyway.<br />
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Now the trucks are ready for the paintshop. As always stay tuned for updates.<br />
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Alain Kaphttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06075703526554791495noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-198824207257015226.post-45882586261345673872015-03-30T14:00:00.002+02:002015-03-30T14:17:31.285+02:007 ton Semi-trailer, Panel Cargo<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Some time ago I purchased the 1/72 kit of a Studebaker US6 truck with semi-trailer and was hoping to use it on my HO layout like I did with the LCVP. Unfortunately this kit is accurately scaled and thus too large compared to my other HO trucks.<br />
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Photos olive-drab.com<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNcdJdBahWhyphenhyphenPgzclfBxmNWixOlMflfC8P9YAn9AGRIjVT1eMlbHVileFByxJ1rzsspjWnijclf-s5CdnKFWdoKWrn3eVNMklacZcgafxX4BGIhgEawIdyFKP74jlYv2R_EZFwDO3_Fv1h/s1600/id_m118_trailer_01_700.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNcdJdBahWhyphenhyphenPgzclfBxmNWixOlMflfC8P9YAn9AGRIjVT1eMlbHVileFByxJ1rzsspjWnijclf-s5CdnKFWdoKWrn3eVNMklacZcgafxX4BGIhgEawIdyFKP74jlYv2R_EZFwDO3_Fv1h/s1600/id_m118_trailer_01_700.jpg" height="180" width="320" /></a><br />
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I searched the internet of useable models in HO. It proved that Roco (now Herpa) manufactured a 1/87 model of a M118 Semi-Trailer. It was listed under Roco Minitanks with the item number Z168. Although being a more moder version, it could be modified and give a good stand in for the WWII 7-ton Semi-trailer. <br />
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I purchased six trailer models, some already modified. This model seems to be out of production for some years because in Europe I couldn't find any, so I had to buy them all in the US. None came in the original boxes, which didn't matter much because I would modify and paint them anyway.<br />
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The first step consisted in removing the landing gears, rear axles and spare tires.<br />
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Then I started to build up the tool box which on the model only had the front panel and no sides, back or bottom.<br />
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I used .020" plain styrene pieces from my scarp box to build new tool boxes.<br />
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On the prototype the landing gear is attached to the underside of the frame near the center and is used as a temporary support, or whenever the trailer is uncoupled from the tractor. It is operated through a worm screw and miter gears by a hand crank, located on the right side of the trailer. I used C-channel to represent the long worm screw and the nut where the guide bracket is attached.<br />
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Using .015" brass wire I bend the back brace assembly in shape.<br />
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In the photo above the tool boxes are completely built-up and a steel bracket for the spare wheel was installed on the front of the body. (The spare tire on the model was attached to the underframe)<br />
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This photo shows the operating mechanism of the landing gear. The wire back brace assembly is locked into a hole that represents the guide bracket srewed to the long worm gear (C-channel). The detail isn't visible from the side.On the prototype, turning the crank handle in either direction, rotates the worm screw. The nut and guide brackets, which are connected to the landing gear back braces, follow the thread of the worm screw, thereby raising or lowering the landing gear, depending on the direction fo rotation.<br />
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I also decided to represent the cross ties on the frame because they are partly visible when viewed from the side.<br />
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I primed the bodies and sprayed them with Tamyia Olive Drap from a spray can.<br />
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The finished semi-trailers. <br />
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Roco/Herpa did not manufacture a tractor (Studebaker or GM) so I also had to transform a GMC truck by removing the truckbed and installing a saddle plate.<br />
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I will probably also convert some of the Classic Metal Works tractors to pull the trailers.<br />
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I still need to find bigger wheels for the landing gear (or eventually build them from scratch). The trailers will we loaded with boxes and equipment and some also covered with tarp before they are put into action on Broadway Pier for loading on the next cargo ship.<br />
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Stay tuned for my upcoming conversion of a Roco/Herpa M30 Fuel Tank Semi-Trailer into a commercial tank truck.<br />
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<br />Alain Kaphttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06075703526554791495noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-198824207257015226.post-73921470952747252272015-03-23T14:28:00.001+01:002015-04-04T11:34:57.214+02:00Garbage TruckTo populate the streets on my layout I am constantly looking for interesting vehicles and figures to create unique scenes.<br />
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One such vehicle is a garbage or refuse truck, to collect all the garbage bins placed along the sidewalk. A few modern models of garbage trucks exist, but I need a model that suits my 1940's era.<br />
I searched the internet for appropriate pictures and probably would need to scratch-build one.<br />
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<a href="http://classicrefusetrucks.com/" target="_blank">ClassicRefuseTrucks.com</a> has a wealth of vintage pictures from the 1930's until the 1960's.<br />
The truck above is equipped with a Leach garbage Loader.<br />
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The smaller rear bucket loader garbage trucks above would be right for smaller communities and I will try to scratchbuild one of these. (A Heil Collecto truck at left and a Leach at right)<br />
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Then on ebay I was fortunate to find a couple of resin bodies that I could mount on an existing truck chassis.<br />
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<a href="http://stores.ebay.com/THE-RAIL-CONNECTION" target="_blank">THE RAIL CONNECTION</a> offers several resin bodies and trucks.<br />
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I choose one of my flatbed truck models from Classic Metal Works to accept the garbage body.<br />
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I removed the flat bed by inserting a small screwdriver between the bed and the chassis and popped the deck off. It is actually glued at several spots.<br />
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The rear axle and wheels are wider than the garbage body so I needed to add fenders. I salvaged two rear fenders from a Con-Cor Steam Era 1930's Ford Truck kit.<br />
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I drilled a small hole (#76 ??) in the side of the fenders to accept a piece of .019" brass wire.<br />
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Then I also drilled the same size hole in the side of the body where the fenders would be.<br />
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As you can see, the resin body casting is not very clean and has a lot of small holes that came from trapped air bubbles during the casting process. I tried to fill some but as the truck will not be too close to the layout edge they will not be visible after painting.<br />
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I test fitted the body on the chassis, to check if the fenders would well cover the wheels. Then I glued them to the resin body with a few drops of CA.<br />
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Then I applied a coat of grey primer from a Tamyia spray bottle.<br />
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After the primer had dried I brush painted the body with Vallejo Alluminium paint. I didn't feel the need to fire up my airbrush because the Vallejo paints cover well even with a brush.<br />
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Finally I glued the garbage body to the chassis with a few drops of contact cement.<br />
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Soon later the city workers were busy collecting the garbage bins. <br />
I will apply a decent weathering to the truck and body and keep on checking for appropriate lettering for the garbage truck.<br />
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Stay tuned for more special vehicles to be added soon.<br />
<br />Alain Kaphttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06075703526554791495noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-198824207257015226.post-91950594466779921292015-03-17T18:30:00.000+01:002015-03-19T12:38:48.546+01:00California Packing Corp. (Del Monte Quality Foods) Part 2<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Here's my update on the Del Monte packing house on my layout. Check the first part <a href="http://atsf-surfline.blogspot.com/2015_02_01_archive.html" target="_blank">California Packing Corp., Santa Ana, CA.</a><br />
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After my initial thought, placing the packing house next to the aisle, I had to admit that the available space was not enough to put it there. I had planned to use 2 kits and to make it double in length, but even without the loading dock it was too wide.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIVKumTxZsRfUNmnMKxbDiAupSa57mKSneMIwBatMpcsAU7rwaq-NXOV50FqUcCHFCJ1joeXWLfnPKGdlcVHQ_Y1GTpKhHNRE6hWMpzmKj4fztRU-d50bZnqy3BKcZv3p_D3w5PAZ9SJkB/s1600/sa_nehi_02_1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIVKumTxZsRfUNmnMKxbDiAupSa57mKSneMIwBatMpcsAU7rwaq-NXOV50FqUcCHFCJ1joeXWLfnPKGdlcVHQ_Y1GTpKhHNRE6hWMpzmKj4fztRU-d50bZnqy3BKcZv3p_D3w5PAZ9SJkB/s1600/sa_nehi_02_1.jpg" height="195" width="320" /></a>I will put the NeHi Bottling Company in that spot instead. This would be a scratchbuilt structure so I could use some selective compression on that.<br />
Photo of former NeHi building courtesy of Jim Lancaster<br />
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I will place one side wall against the backdrop and add a turnout with a stub track to serve the packing house.<br />
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But now first things first.<br />
After assembling the wall sections I airbrushed them with Vallejo Military Green paint. (#70.975)<br />
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Then I masked the different trim sections and door sashes...<br />
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..and brushpainted them with a bright red color.<br />
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I lightly brushed the loading dock planks with Vallejo Khaki (#70.988) and gave them a Black Shade wash after drying.(73201)<br />
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Then I sprayed the railings, doors and windows with a coat of grey primer<br />
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and after the primer had dried, a coat of Vallejo Vermillion red. (#70.909)<br />
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I inserted the window frames and glued the castings from the back side with Deluxe Glue 'n' Glaze. I also used this medium to glue the window glass. It dries transparent and doesn't craze the clear acetate windows.<br />
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I scaled and printed the Del Monte Logo on plain copy paper. Then I cut it roughly out with a pair of scissors.<br />
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I gently sanded the logo from the back side until the color of the logo was barely visible. Extreme care must be taken with this method, not to tear the logo apart. Then I trimmed the excess paper around the logo outlines.<br />
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I applied a thin coat of Deluxe Card Glue on the back of the logo and positioned it on the wall.<br />
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I pushed a paper towel on the logo to squeeze the excess glue out. The logo is thin like a decal and fits snuggly between the clapboard siding of the wall. A light weathering of the walls will dull the logo down.<br />
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I placed the packing house temporarily against the backdrop until the track gang moves in to lay the new turnout and stub track.<br />
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To prevent the blue backdrop from shining through the windows, I glued pieces of black drafting paper behind the window glass. Railings had to be modified because I arranged the wall sections a bit differently than intended by the instructions. Shown are the 4 Vallejo colors that I used on this project.<br />
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Now waiting for the weekend to install the stub track.<br />
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<br />Alain Kaphttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06075703526554791495noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-198824207257015226.post-49927682792612516102015-02-28T23:42:00.000+01:002015-02-28T23:42:17.485+01:00California Packing Corporation, Santa Ana, CA. (aka Del Monte Quality Foods)With my valance and fascia work almost done, I finally found some time to work on a couple of new structures for my layout. Between my staging yard (LA/San Bernardino) and San Juan Capistrano I had squeezed in 2 more industries representing the town of Santa Ana. Since Walthers released a kit that is based on the California Packing Corporation aka Del Monte Packing House, I absolutely wanted to include this significant structure on my layout.<br />
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On the picture above is the First Title Insurance Company Photo showing the prototype packing house<br />
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and here is the Walthers representation of it as the Valley Citrus Packers. At least four of these kits will be necessary to come close to the real thing. My limited real estate nevertheless allows for a two kit long structure. This will be the right side of the prototype picture.<br />
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The wall segments of the kit are beveled to form a rectangular structure with one wall piece for every side. For my packing house I had to join three sections with the stepped wall in the center.<br />
I sanded the beveled edges away except for the left edge of the straight section and the right edge of the other straight section.<br />
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I trimmed the alignment tabs away using a pair of Xuron cutters.<br />
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Then I sanded the edges smooth. <br />
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I reinforced the wall sections with .040" plain styrene pieces from my scrap box glued to the back of the wall sections. I clamped everything together until the glue dried.<br />
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I searched the internet for the <a href="http://logos.wikia.com/wiki/Del_Monte" target="_blank">Del Monte logo</a> found on the prototype picture. This logo was in use from 1909 until the 1960's. I will print it on clear decal paper and apply it to the structure after painting.<br />
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Next step will be painting and assembling the packing house.<br />
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Stay tuned for the next installment.<br />
<br />Alain Kaphttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06075703526554791495noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-198824207257015226.post-42160604838850085352015-01-19T12:59:00.004+01:002015-02-28T22:05:04.936+01:00Reworked Lighting and Upper ValenceSome time back, after I had installed and painted my backdro,p I also installed lighting on the ceiling all along the layout.<br />
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The layout room has an overall height of 2,50 meters (aprox. 8 feet and something) To get the layout framed in conveniently I had to install a valance extending down roughly 60 cm (2 feet). <br />
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The ceiling is poured concrete and drilling holes into it was a real pain. Also working overhead to screw the light fixtures and valance supports is very tedious. Finally I didn't like the idea of such a deep valance and also the lighting was a bit too far away from the actual layout base.<br />
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When I visited my friend Pit Karges' <a href="http://h0n3.blogspot.com/" target="_blank">HOn3 Lodores & Silvertown</a> layout, I immediately liked the idea to attach the brackets lower on the wall. This was no big deal because I had glued my backdrop flat against the walls. I screwed the brackets through the backdrop to the brick wall underneath.<br />
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I used 38 cm long brackets on the wider and 28 cm on the narrower parts of the layout<br />
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The brackets extend as far out as the edge of the layout. The valance fascia boards will be 20cm. This leaves a viewing window of at least 60 cm.<br />
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On the picture above you see the difference between the ceiling and the future height of the valance.<br />
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The backdrop on the center peninsula is 3mm MDF with no support underneath where I have to attach the brackets<br />
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I drilled 8mm holes into the backdrop and inserted drywall dowels.<br />
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The screw is tightened until the end of the dowel is spread against the back of the board. These work very well for all kinds of hollow core supports including plasterboard. <br />
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In the process of reworking the layout lighting I will leave 3 fluorescent lights attached to the ceiling for general room lighting. So I only need to illuminate the layout when I'm running trains and by this save some electricity.<br />
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I will use the area above the valance as additional storage.<br />
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Stay tuned for the final work session on the valance and fascia.<br />
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<br />Alain Kaphttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06075703526554791495noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-198824207257015226.post-64741133878772798952014-12-12T13:04:00.001+01:002016-06-14T11:53:18.412+02:00LCVP's enroute for San Diego<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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In an earlier post I contemplated about mounting an <a href="http://atsf-surfline.blogspot.com/search/label/Rolling%20stock" target="_blank">LCVP on a flatcar.</a> </div>
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The 1/72th LCVP fits nicely on a 57'6" flatcar.</div>
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Bob Chaparro forwarded me a picture of an LCVP on a flat car sitting in the Pacific Electric Dolores Yard in California during WWII. As you can see, the side overhang is identical to the one of the model. (Metro Tansportation Library and Archives Flickr</div>
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https://www.flickr.com/photos/metrolibraryarchive/sets/72157607658830341/detail/?page=12)</div>
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Unfortunately I did not find any side shot to see how the cradle looks like. </div>
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Then early this year AIRFIX released a completely new, redesigned kit of the LCVP. They also took better measurements of the prototype because the 1/72 scale model is now smaller than their former 1/76. The details are crisp and clean with no flash to remove from the parts. </div>
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What pleased me most, is the fact that they included a model of the actual cradle these landing craft were shipped on, instead of the clumsy stand they used with the old landing craft model.</div>
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These 5 pieces will form an accurate cradle for the LCVP.</div>
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The parts for the cradle seem to conform to the procedures used by the Transportation Corps to secure boats and landing crafts to railroad flat cars.</div>
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The instructions suggest to paint the cradle the same grey color than the LCVP, but as this was wood, I will paint it a tan color. </div>
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The schematic above shows the wood blocking for the cradle.</div>
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Stay tuned for updates! </div>
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<br />Alain Kaphttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06075703526554791495noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-198824207257015226.post-75308695962787723322014-09-19T12:42:00.001+02:002014-09-19T12:49:18.420+02:00Preparing for the first operating session<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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After my summer vacation I decided to prepare for a first operating session on the layout. In fact I did not run that many trains on it and I want to be sure everything works fine before I continue with ballasting track and adding more scenery. I also want to know if the operating scheme that I figured out would actually work, and that can best be checked out during an ops session.<br />
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It's hard to believe how much clutter is gathering on the unfinished parts of the layout. Kit boxes with structures and rolling stock. Locomotives and cars scattered around on most of the tracks. Tools and scenery materials, glue jars and paints, plans, sketches, drawings and things...you certainly know what I mean. It took me a weeks' evenings to get rid of the junk and to store the other items away, so that my tabletop looked like a model railroad again on which I could finally run some trains. <br />
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The photo above shows San Juan Capistrano (partly finished) on the left and my staging yard with Vista and Escondido on the small shelf above it.<br />
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I've tried a number of waybill and car card systems over the years but finally settled with the system we use at the FREMO (Friends Circle of European Modelers). The late Wolfgang Dudler (MMR 452) created an Excel based database to print waybills. A downloadable version is available <b><span style="color: #cc0000;"><a href="http://www.westportterminal.de/download.html" target="_blank">HERE</a></span></b>.<br />
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The system consists in entering the towns and industries of the layout on one side and the off-line shippers and consignees with the appropriate ladings. <br />
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Above is a screenshot of the input screen. I derived a bit from the original program with the center portion for the consignees and lading whether on-line or off-line. To the left are the off-line shippers and to the right of the center portion are the on-line shippers. This makes it easier to assign the different shipments.<br />
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On the waybill page I redesigned the waybills for my purpose. The waybill page draws the information from the input page for 12 waybills. On the input page you may select the on- or off-line shipper by its number, which is entered into the orange box on top left. With this you may choose specific shippers or simply replace lost waybills without printing the whole set.<br />
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There is another particularity if I choose from the on-line shippers (right side of input page), There is another set of waybills that may be generated, Empty Car requests. In my system the empty cars are not just there when I need them, but I probably have to order them at the nearest yard, and that's what these waybill are for. How my system work will be described later. First I want to try it out and make adjustments if needed.<br />
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I then generate PDF files from the excel sheets and print them out on heavier (120 gr.) printer paper. The normal white paper I use has 80 gr. Don't know what this will be in ounces, but I am sure there are similar paper sizes in the US. I use these waybills until they are used and print new ones from the files. To save on inkjet color, I used also 120 gr yellow printer paper for the MTY car requests. <br />
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Then I cut the waybills out with a large paper cutter. This makes long, neat cuts and saves time over a pair of scissors.<br />
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For my first stock of waybills I came up with about 400 !!! waybills. I doubt that it will be a tad more, because some industries didn't get any assignments yet. But I don't want to over crowd it and will add waybills as needed.<br />
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I placed waybill boxes on the fascia around the layout, adjacent to the industries and sorted the waybills to their respective slots. The boxes are a variety of models we use at the FREMO.In the above photo is one from Micro Mark.<br />
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In the next installment I will explain my operating system, so stay tuned.<br />
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<br />Alain Kaphttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06075703526554791495noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-198824207257015226.post-75679748093165027972014-08-04T13:23:00.004+02:002015-06-03T13:02:31.413+02:00Growing weeds on the depot<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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As the tower would be completely covered with weeds I only carved the
dome and bell tower from a chunk of balsa wood, just enough for the
shape.<br />
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Then I covered the roof with Plastruct Spanich Tiles using the kit templates <br />
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I painted the roof with a red brick color<br />
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After the paint had dried I started to cover a part of the roof with
Woodland Scenics medium green weeds/turf, held in place with a coat of
white glue.<br />
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The white glue proves to take too long to set, so I continued with Woodland Scenics Hob-E-Tac sticky glue. That's the same glue for attaching the leaves to tree armatures. It sticks instantly upon contact.<br />
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To cover the tower and dome I chose Woodland Scenics bushes (Clump Foliage)<br />
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I started from bottom to top, adding "bushes" in several layers until it looked like on the photographs of the 1940's.<br />
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The arches of the tower were almost completely overgrown and the dome looked like some kind of mushroom head.<br />
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I applied weathering powders on the remaining roof and the walls.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTH78QTKb8qNZi6rcNsYw512ynNMWZNkeLVWCK-R75KkuZ0E2QL-1z19BE7RXNgfdDQXcTv66fH1ZL_6eweAK2ZlxXmLGwzyngvDOtUezNgezufKrWA3pOX7NmhiBrqQdkVjlnVexixYEb/s1600/20140804_054502.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTH78QTKb8qNZi6rcNsYw512ynNMWZNkeLVWCK-R75KkuZ0E2QL-1z19BE7RXNgfdDQXcTv66fH1ZL_6eweAK2ZlxXmLGwzyngvDOtUezNgezufKrWA3pOX7NmhiBrqQdkVjlnVexixYEb/s1600/20140804_054502.jpg" width="200" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEim14XiIBFiMLpA4X4L6FZBs3H9JM9w2Umyjv3yvYutTrwtiCjggyPqUd_qVAK2ncfcH0liGQSmqaeRpotonlPITfjrpz56gdVlfneYaEWFws7M0XcS4ryOVQD0PWTFG0Puwc_LeL9aldjM/s1600/20140804_061643.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEim14XiIBFiMLpA4X4L6FZBs3H9JM9w2Umyjv3yvYutTrwtiCjggyPqUd_qVAK2ncfcH0liGQSmqaeRpotonlPITfjrpz56gdVlfneYaEWFws7M0XcS4ryOVQD0PWTFG0Puwc_LeL9aldjM/s1600/20140804_061643.jpg" width="200" /></a></div>
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Here are some views of the finished depot .<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisKXjLPs89mv1tvqSsuLjizkqnrcAfDz_B4CJt6emGm_nofr8wZ09HMbqaSjP2TfJXkKXKdVY3nTJ7NfDbrIAtoPXhrs2NsZLVQew9Gl-LQ3eO1SL-LnQuNmkoJxcApZNYGHKOgqpKFj4x/s1600/DepotTrackside2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="162" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisKXjLPs89mv1tvqSsuLjizkqnrcAfDz_B4CJt6emGm_nofr8wZ09HMbqaSjP2TfJXkKXKdVY3nTJ7NfDbrIAtoPXhrs2NsZLVQew9Gl-LQ3eO1SL-LnQuNmkoJxcApZNYGHKOgqpKFj4x/s1600/DepotTrackside2.jpg" width="200" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvwR7e8CVhHG93bga160WJJp-LU9DpJmDequRi3HwJ2XrctHu1kgP1PhW79eBXOpZlUo6uDxuBz2szJB57T6XdvnpeTxiPyi_SG8psLhHbgQQRlvQwms6INW5o8hrBs0sKZJCAO27eY5MA/s1600/20140804_061533.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvwR7e8CVhHG93bga160WJJp-LU9DpJmDequRi3HwJ2XrctHu1kgP1PhW79eBXOpZlUo6uDxuBz2szJB57T6XdvnpeTxiPyi_SG8psLhHbgQQRlvQwms6INW5o8hrBs0sKZJCAO27eY5MA/s1600/20140804_061533.jpg" width="200" /></a></div>
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The b/w picture above at right was my reference to recreate the track side of the depot. (San Juan Capistrano Historical Society photo)<br />
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And the Demorro photo above served to model the Verdugo street side of the depot <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTH78QTKb8qNZi6rcNsYw512ynNMWZNkeLVWCK-R75KkuZ0E2QL-1z19BE7RXNgfdDQXcTv66fH1ZL_6eweAK2ZlxXmLGwzyngvDOtUezNgezufKrWA3pOX7NmhiBrqQdkVjlnVexixYEb/s1600/20140804_054502.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTH78QTKb8qNZi6rcNsYw512ynNMWZNkeLVWCK-R75KkuZ0E2QL-1z19BE7RXNgfdDQXcTv66fH1ZL_6eweAK2ZlxXmLGwzyngvDOtUezNgezufKrWA3pOX7NmhiBrqQdkVjlnVexixYEb/s1600/20140804_054502.jpg" width="200" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTG6n2uDRyByy8wsh8hgBj_BBwwdiVCBZrMK7TYM3cvMpncWRbYlleunNChxes561SYVorj_yVM2HN68SOTsIZNPRJYTibaRJHR-WLBKmPnvbJOzMbC0Hpod56E4Tmq4CjwKsDZF3kOseE/s1600/20140804_053956.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTG6n2uDRyByy8wsh8hgBj_BBwwdiVCBZrMK7TYM3cvMpncWRbYlleunNChxes561SYVorj_yVM2HN68SOTsIZNPRJYTibaRJHR-WLBKmPnvbJOzMbC0Hpod56E4Tmq4CjwKsDZF3kOseE/s1600/20140804_053956.jpg" width="200" /></a></div>
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After all this project pleases me as much as the like-new look of the depot.I guess it is some kind of a unique looking depot and really fun to build.<br />
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<br />Alain Kaphttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06075703526554791495noreply@blogger.com1